In a romantic lamp-lit setting, by the harbour with boats bobbing on the water, Ciro has been a local institution since 1936. It’s tempting to go for the seafood, which is cooked fresh on a charcoal grill, but there are other restaurants serving more flavourful fish in the city. Try the fish-topped pizza here instead. Ciro is more about location: the view out to Del’Ova, gloriously lit on the dark sea at night, is stunning, while the restaurant is elegant with smart waiters and fine wines.

With views of the city from the enchanting Borgo Marinari, La Bersagliera is a traditional Neapolitan restaurant serving typical local dishes such as raw seafood salad and spaghetti with clams and fresh tomatoes. Established in 1919 to serve sailors a simple breakfast, the restaurant retains its classic décor with an ornate stucco ceiling and the original tables and chairs. In summer you can dine alfresco overlooking the bay.

‘The Taste Room’ has caused quite a stir on the classic Neapolitan dining scene. Instead of turn-of-the-century décor, there’s a modern cheese boutique on the vaulted ground floor with a regularly updated chalkboard featuring rare Campanian cheeses. Upstairs is a radical temple of gastronomy where tasting menus can feature plates like chicken liver flan with a shock of red strawberry salsa.

Located in the Chiaia area, Da Dora is considered by many to be the best seafood restaurant in Naples. Despite being visited by the likes of Georgio Armani, it remains utterly unpretentious with the focus firmly on the daily seafood catch. The kitchen is open to the street, where you can see the huge charcoal grill crammed with plump John Dory, charcoaled clams and sweet spiny lobster.

Painted in creamy yellow hues, with exposed brick walls lined with aging Campanian wines, Trattoria dell’Oca exudes great warmth and character. Careful attention to classic Neapolitan dishes is the signature of this restaurant where Franco and Peppino prepare salted cod with cherry tomatoes and capers, and courgette pasta with mussels. Wash them down with a well-rounded glass of Aglianico from the nearby town of Benevento.

Considering that Naples is Italy’s pizza capital, it’s impressive enough that Sorbillo is producing the best example of the city’s staple, let alone doing it with such aplomb. Claiming to make some of the oldest pizza in Italy, this restaurant dates back to 1935 and continues to create a traditional Neapolitan version of the world’s favourite pie. Expect soft bread that melts in your mouth, fresh ingredients and thick, creamy cheese. Don’t wait until you’re starving to visit, though, as there’s nearly always a huge queue, whether it’s lunch or dinner.

Veteran pizza makers, the Condurro family have been knocking out classic Neapolitan pizzas for five generations. There are only two varieties: the Marinara (seafood) and the Margherita (tomato, cheese and basil). The secret of their success is super fresh ingredients and a method of leavening the pizza dough for over 12 hours. Don’t be deterred by the references to the film Eat, Pray, Love starring Julia Roberts, in which Da Michele makes a cameo. The only star of this old pizzeria is the food. So join the queue, take your ticket and wait to be called to one of the marble-topped tables to sample the magic yourself.

This is a small family-owned restaurant serving local specialities. It is centrally located just off the central Piazza Plebescito and attracts a crowd of lunching professionals (it is only open for lunch). The menu is a mix of homegrown vegetables and homemade dishes such as baby octopus in tomato sauce and a bubbling baked aubergine layered with mozzarella.

Located close to one of Naples largest fresh produce markets, La Pignasecca, this taverna serves vibrant, flavoursome food at great prices. Order the mixed antipasti and you’ll be confronted with a dozen little plates filled with delicacies like meatballs, spaghetti with squid ink, lentil soup and freshly fried fish. The white-tiled dining room is frill-free and there’s often no menu as the cook serves whatever is fresh from the market.